Tag Archives: tropical season

Surf Wax: You’re using too much, one bar per summer.

Surf wax is sort of a necessity. You need surf wax for almost all surfboards. What many people fail to recognize is, surf wax doesn’t need to be “bumpy.” It doesn’t need to be coated on so thick that there are big clumps on your board. In an effort to try to understand what’s actually an effective amount of surf wax, I’m challenging myself to surf the entire summer using just one bar of surf wax. One bar of surf wax should be more than enough for the entire summer, even with an active summer, surfing every single tropical swell.

I recently spoke to Reily at Honeymoon Island before going out into the lineup. I noticed that he’s one of those surfers who ritualistically coats his surfboard with surf wax, ensuring there are mounds of surf wax on it. I told him, “You’re using too much!” He said, “Oh, I just feel like I’m slipping off, and I need more wax.” The surfboard in question is very long and very thick, and coated with layers of heavy fiberglass. It will be a real challenge to swing around. Your hip movements will want to move faster than the board will let you turn. These quick movement will cause him to slip off his board no matter how much surf wax he’s got on his board, which leads him to believe there isn’t enough on there.

This summer, in an attempt to limit my surf wax usage, I’m taking one bar of surf wax, and only using it as much as is absolutely necessary. The goal is to use only one bar of surf wax or less over the entire summer. The link to this page will be put on the homepage of www.SurfingtheGulf.com, and will be updated throughout the summer with the progress. Follow along as the summer progresses. The link will have the date of most recent update on it.


May 30th, 2018:
As a starting point, the water is just about 80 degrees nearing mid to late Spring. Tropical Storm Alberto just passed us by leaving fun surf in its wake. Before Alberto, I cleared two surfboards of old surf wax, and put a starting coat on top, which left me with a large amount of surf wax for the rest of the summer.


June 23, 2018:
There’s been two swells between the last video and this video.  There’s been a tropical storm and a cold front between that first waxing and the one today. In total there were six days worth of surf, three for Alberto and three for the June cold front. Today there was just enough  wind to put a small wave on the beach. Before making the trip down to the beach I took a moment to re-wax my longboard surfboard in the areas where the wax had rubbed off.  The main area on the  board that needed waxing was just behind the center of the board where I lay on the board, and the places where I put my feet while riding the surfboard.  I didn’t need to put wax anywhere else. It took about two minutes to put a solid layer of surf wax over the bare spots. After today there should still be a solid amount of wax that should last into the next swell, and of the bar of wax, there’s still more than half left.

Alberto
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3

Cold Front
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3

For best resolution view on desktop/laptop.


July 30, 2018:

This update covers a little more than the month of July. There were two major surf events on the gulf from the last update. There was a quick blast of swell in late June for just a day. It was really a surprise considering no-one was anticipating the surf coming up.  In July a cold front low that sucked up a bunch of tropical moisture generated surf for days. In addition to the 5 or more days of surf, the low had two really solid sized days of unusually larger surf. Surf in the summer isn’t usually big unless there’s a big hurricane spinning around. That unusual couple days got me to pull out the short-board and rip a few gnarly turns. In order for me to use this smaller thinner board that’s really more of a winter board, I needed to remove the cold water wax and put some warm water wax on it. This waxing has brought my wax supply to dangerously low levels (see image below). While I didn’t really need to use this board, and while I could have surfed the red board with the convex bottom, it’s a significant challenge to surf the red board well in bigger surf.  Now that I’ve surfed the real short-board I’m reminded of how much better it feels to be able to carve through the water with complete precision. During this event I pulled double sessions, surfing for somewhere close to 6 hours each day.  In total this update includes wax usage from a total of 6 days with two extra long days.

June Front
A surprise swell at the end of June.

Cold Front Low
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4 Part 1, Part 2
Day 5


 

Newly Formed Tropical Storm Alberto

The storm that was a low pressure system is interacting with a sharp upper level trough, and that low is now called Tropical Storm Alberto. Ship and Buoy observations are providing the data for the upgrade to Tropical Storm Strength, measured at about 35-40 knot winds. The Hurricane Hunters were scheduled to further investigate the storm, and are likely in the air right now collecting more measurements. The storm center has more than one low pressure area. Moving slowly north northwestward, the storm is expected to increase momentum in the next 36-48 hours, likely leaving it in the lower gulf to spin and create longer period south swell that is likely to take nearly a day to get here. The storm is currently encountering shear, but is expected to strengthen some as it moves over the gulf. The west coast of Florida will be experiencing an increase in wind strength and rain chances, with potentially gale force gusts. The storm is expected to slow again as it nears the northern gulf around Monday morning, again allowing the storm to continue creating surf, and sending it toward the coast. This will be an extended pattern of long period swell, potentially days of groundswell, with offshore or side offshore winds. Please note: it’s way, way more likely we get onshore winds associated with the storm (statistically speaking).

Tropical Weather Forecast: The Klotzbach Report

Phil Klotzbach and Michael Bell published their annual Hurricane season forecast on April 6th.  The report tells us what to expect for the upcoming Atlantic basin hurricane season starting on June 1st.  Through their comprehensive statistical modeling, a method that combines four different statistical models and uses hindsight verification, they generated a hurricane season output (the forecast) that’s considered the gold standard of hurricane forecasting.  From their model they are able to tell us, with a reasonable degree of reliability, how much activity we’ll see during this hurricane season.  As with most seasons and any statistical procedure, the impact of variable events like the heating of the Pacific (El Nino) presents some uncertainty.  A strong El Nino could increase the likelihood of tropical activity.  Currently, the equatorial Pacific is in the neutral El Nino state, and is expected to warm to a weak El Nino by the peak of the hurricane season.  In the report Dr. Klotzbach suggests that because the tropical Atlantic has cooled considerably over the past month, and because the far north Atlantic is relatively cold, we can expect a below average hurricane season.

The numbers:

11 named storms
50 named storm days
4 hurricanes
16 hurricane days
2 major hurricanes
4 major hurricane days

And as you may know, it’s common for the gulf to get a solid little storm right at the beginning of the season, often in June!  We may even get another epic swell like the one during Hurricane Hermine last September.