1st Cold Front Sets the Pace for the Season

Based on this first front we can infer that the seasonal pattern will include two days of significant surf.  This front had a afternoon and evening of surf on the first day, then another day of similar surf on the following day that lasted well through the afternoon.


 

Along with the north wind a current formed parallel to and against the shoreline.



Into the late evening the winds began to blow strongly again from the north.  Overnight they continued to blow strongly.  By morning and while the sun was coming up the wind switched.  It changed directions and began to blow lightly from the north and east.  When this happened the waves became smooth.

The waves in the morning were groomed with light offshore winds.  People in the lineup were talking about the size of the waves still on the bouys.  4 feet at 6 seconds this morning was larger than the day before.  Once mid-day rolled through the waves were hitting the sand bar and lining up for long sections.  The wave size was ideal for boards with a lot of bouyancy, but was also a lot of fun on a short board.

 

At the end of the weekend the swell dissipated and returned to flatness.  The entire event was very fun.  Saturday was very surfable and on Sunday morning everyone was surprised to find waist high plus surf.  This swell packed as much juice as north county can expect to get on a swell of this size during this part of the year.  This event gives us high hopes for the rest of the surf season.

 

 

 

 

Tweet about this on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on FacebookShare on LinkedInEmail this to someone